Milan Fashion Week highlights – AW14/15

Gucci

Images courtesy of Vogue

Frida Giannini’s achingly cool collection for Gucci epitomised the mod movement of the 1960s; all fluffy mohair pea coats draped over exquisitely tailored suits, thick rimmed glasses, turtle necks and go-go boots reworked in python print. Key pieces included ruffled bib-fronted shirts and dresses in super soft nappa leather, the wearable and understated elements of the collection marking something of a revelation for Gucci themselves, toning down the characteristic Italian razzmatazz we’re used to seeing. The colour palette was unusual for an autumn winter collection, muted pastels taking centre stage; buttery yellows, sugary pinks, duck egg blue and mossy greens, which captured a sweet, girlish spirit. This dreamy collection fused classic Italian glamour, vintage sirens and sweetshop hues to provide beautifully imitable and exciting inspiration for next season.

Roberto Cavalli

Images courtesy of Vogue

Just when we thought the Gatsby-inspired dust had settled, Cavalli reignited our passion for Twenties attire in a blaze of flapper dresses, crystal embellishments and fox fur collars. Turning up the heat at Fashion Week, Cavalli transformed the catwalk into a literal ring of fire, artfully deploying a scene of high drama and danger in which models coolly navigated the fiery inferno in striking floor-length dresses. The sizzling theme of this collection was epitomised in a silk column midi dress, which featured tantalising fire prints licking dangerously at the hemline and a flame hued fur collar. Monochrome, abstract and snake print rounded off the collection, appearing on ultra-sophisticated tailored trousers, fitted shirts and evening dresses. The stand out pieces were a series of sheer black flapper dresses, just erring on the right side of risqué, heavily embellished with crystals – which, if you looked closely, formed the shape of flames.

Marco De Vincenzo

Images courtesy of Vogue

There was considerable hype surrounding De Vincenzo this season, with the designer having recently attracted investment from powerhouse conglomerate LVMH. His AW14 collection delivered on promise, offering a series of unashamedly clashing designs and skilfully redeployed fabrics. The remarkable range of prints were the focal point, from contrasting polka dots, updated tweed dresses reworked with woven metallics, stripy rainbow hued foil-style skirts and jackets, boxy macramé woven dresses and vivid dyed fur trimming. Stand out pieces included lurex pleated skirts, laced with glitter thread, multi-coloured plaid collared dresses and sparkly foil fitted blazers, which were mixed together indiscriminately to create truly eye-catching ensembles. Maroon, mustard and black provided earthy contrasts to the fantastical prints. Although these contrasts could have been visually overwhelming, the collection was overall delightfully harmonious, a skilful achievement that cemented Marco De Vinenzo as a name to watch and an exciting fashion talent.

Au Jour Le Jour

Images courtesy of Vogue

Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez fused Italian flair and sophistication with a vibrant and contemporary edge to create a visually stunning collection for Au Jour Le Jour. The show was infused with girly references, liberally splashed with cutesy prints – cat faces, pugs, chihuahuas and studded red lips – and there were preppy accents, from long socks and loafers to adorning ruffles and bows. Just as at Gucci there were scattered 60s references in PVC-style miniskirts, fluffy jumpers and mod-like monochrome. The beauty of this collection was its unpretentiousness attitude, embracing childish and playful references, from crossover strap pinafores with oversized buttons, multiple cat and dog badges to a popping colour palette of rosy reds, vibrant violets and tantalising tangerine. A collection to please the meme-loving internet generation and a love letter to whimsy and fun.

I wrote this piece for The Glass Pineapple. For more trends, show reports and fashion news, check out their website.

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